It remains to be seen what happens in the future, but I do feel that the Craig era has influenced many (including me) on great style and tailoring.
Article by – Tie Another Day.
After watching No Time To Die, I was surprised to learn that this film featured the fewest number of tailored suits in a Bond film. Indeed the tailoring was limited to the Dinner Jacket, a Grey Prince of Wales (Glen Plaid) Check suit, and a Navy Prince of Wales (Glen Plaid) blue check suit. The last one being the one that caught my eye.
The suit was featured as part of the TOM FORD James Bond capsule that was released in February 2020. That capsule also included a grey pinpoint melange suit that was provided to the production team but never used. Coming back to the navy Prince of Wales Check suit, this was the last tailored suit that Daniel Craig’s James Bond wears (sorry spoiler warning), and it is the suit that he wears quite a bit during the film. He wears it to when he interrogates Blofeld, and when he is reinstated into MI6.
The suit in real life (i.e. not under the colour filter) comes across as a grey blue, and this is due to the intricate weave of navy, blue and black.
We have seen Daniel Craig’s bond wear a blue glen plaid check suit before. In Spectre, the suit worn during the Mexico City scene was a blue and black Prince of Wales check with a blue overcheck, and that suit does have a vibrancy between an Air Force colour blue and a bright blue suit. Another interesting factor for me was the potential call back to the North by Northwest Suit. Further research has identified that suit to be a blue grey glen plaid check supplied by Holland and Sherry of Savile Row, so in essence this was a potential fusion of some great suits.
Beyond the film
Another reason for my admiration of the suit, was that Daniel Craig himself wore this suit in real life when promoting the film at the Dorchester Hotel in the run up to the No Time To Die premiere. He wore it also when interviewed by Edith Bowman at a Bafta event at the Odeon Leicester Square for “A life in pictures” event. Indeed, the profile pic of Daniel for the event showed off the suit in great detail and in an amazing shade of blue. Seeing the suit in a real life situation, without any filters, made me adore the suit even more.
Are you ready?
I will admit that before considering to purchase this blue check suit that I did explore other alternative options, and whilst there were some very close fabrics that could match the suit, I was not fully satisfied. I saw the suit in person at the TOM FORD boutique on Sloane Street and at Harrods, and it had that two-tone effect that made the fabric so much more interesting.
It wasn’t until January 2022 that I decided to take the plunge.
I had seen the film quite a few times, and following my research on identifying the Prada tie with Mattia and Matt Spaiser (Bond Suits), that I really admired the fabric. I also justified that this was Bond’s last suit, and my collection of other TOM FORD suits would not be complete. The grey Prince of Wales check is seen as the most admired suit, and if I didn’t have a similar grey glen plaid check suit (my Mason and Son’s Goldfinger suit), I would have taken that option.
I have built a good working relationship with the TOM FORD outlet at Harrods, and this year marks the tenth anniversary of my very first TOM FORD tailored suit (a brown Regency which is similar to the one worn in Quantum of Solace). Indeed, this is my tenth TOM FORD suit, so it seemed natural to work with the folks at Harrods.
It had been some time since I got my last suit, and the team at Harrods were meticulous in their measurements, and in getting the right cut, and specifications for the suit. Another reason why I chose Harrods rather than the official Sloane Street is to take advantage of discount days. As a Gold Member I could choose two days to get 10% off. I should say that this is not always universal, but it did help.
A little help from my friends
When I was about to order, I was told that the fabric was unavailable. I was taken aback as this suit was in the new film, and was sure that the fabric would still be in production. I asked if I could make my own enquiries, so I contacted our friend Luigi at TOM FORD. Luigi is the person who has helped the Bond community in getting so many ties, jackets, and hopefully a polo project created and delivered. He was able to confirm that there was enough fabric for my order, and I informed Harrods, who were able to secure the fabric for my order.
I had a few optional extras installed
As much as I like the suit design on film, I have my own preferences, and this goes back to the first TOM FORD suit that I had made which was featured on the Regency style suit, which had double vents and a ticket pocket. One of the great things about Made to Measure is that you can ask for what you want, and style. Hence, the suit I have is using the screen accurate fabric, but the cut is different. I also worked with the tailors to ensure that the suit had room to breathe, but keep that silhouette.
The first fitting is to decide if the suit fits, and it did, like a glove, for those of you wondering. I always order a waistcoat with every suit, and unlike Daniel Craig, I don’t opt for a fitted look. I want a tailored look, and in doing so allow for some room for a heavy lunch. As with all tailored suits the trousers are unfinished, as are the buttons on the sleeves, this is designed to allow for any alterations in the sleeve as it is easier to take fabric from the end of the sleeve then it is to bring the shoulder up.
Details, details, details.
The details, the suit has this wonderful glen plaid check design and it comes out well. This design from a far may look matte, but closer up the detail comes through. I opted for the O’Connor cut, two button single breasted jacket with notch lapels and twin vents. I also requested the ticket pocket. This may seem traditional, but I find double vents a lot more practical, especially if you are sitting for hours in meetings, Double vents allow for the shape of the suit to still maintain, rather than skirting out at the bottom if you are sat in a chair. The ticket pocket has that cool 1960’s retro feel.
For the trousers, I opted for the Shelton double inward pleats trousers. Again this is something of a traditional look, but with the design it allows you to use the pockets with room and not have any noticeable bulging. It also makes it easier ironing the trousers, as you iron it to the waist, rather than to a point somewhere below the waist line. I also requested the side adjusters, and the inclusion of suspender buttons, again keeping all options open in terms of how to wear the suit.
The fabric is really light, it is a mixture of wool and silk (96% wool, 4% silk), and the silk gives it that shine.
The lightness of the suit means it could even be worn in summer. It is not a linen, but it has that option to be worn for warmer weather and as an all year round suit. All the usual tropes are in the suit; the logo, the inside pockets and designs, and it is a very well structured suit.
The complete look
This is the complete look, the blue check suit is correct, the shirt is from Turnbull and Asser, and the tie is from Prada. I have also added in a few accessories (Barton Perriera Joe Sunglasses, and the Omega Seamaster Professional 300 “No Time To Die”).
The suit does have that blue grey look to it, and the Prince of Wales pattern gives it a little more than a sharkskin or a plain fabric. Depending on the light this suit could appear as a mid grey suit or a dark blue. It is very versatile as you can use it for both formal and informal occasions, I was speaking with one of the sales assistants and we agreed that with a sky blue shirt and dark indigo coloured jeans that this could work really well.
End of an era
In a way this blue check suit marks the end of Daniel Craig’s tailored influence on the Bond films. He introduced TOM FORD tailoring in Quantum of Solace, a film that amongst the Bond community is considered the most stylish film of the Craig era. I know there are some who would like British tailors coming back, and I would also support that view, however, the tailoring of TOM FORD is a fusion of English and Italian styles which is something I admire.
The suit fabrics themselves are by far some of the best seen on screen. They are contemporary and the suits and fabrics will look stylish now and in the future.
My own tailoring journey has evolved over the past decade, from learning about cloths and cuts, and other tailoring elements which I have come to appreciate. Over this journey I have met incredible tailors and sales assistants who through their guidance and knowledge have helped me finesse my style and, in some cases, gone above and beyond. I am fully appreciative of their support and customer service. As for what’s next, well I will wait and see. But for now I am content with my (very packed) wardrobe of TOM FORD garments.
Special thanks go to the tailors at TOM FORD, the sales assistants at Harrods, and to Mr Spaiser and Mr Brooker for your informed articles and conversations, and to my fellow Sartorialist Daniel Gaster.
This article was written by Z (@Tie_Another_Day). Be sure to follow him on instagram.