This review is a look at one of the most iconic coats to feature in the Daniel Craig era of films, namely the Tom Ford Kazan coat in Quantum of Solace. This was the first time that Tom Ford had provided outfits for James Bond, and in my opinion the suits and clothes featured in Quantum of Solace is by far one of the best, if not THE best in the entire James Bond series.
A fitting end…
The coat featured in the end scenes of Quantum of Solace where Bond waits to confront Yusuf Kabira (Vesper’s boyfriend). The image of Bond waiting in the dark with the silhouette of the coat and the collars popped is truly iconic, and then commanding Yusuf to SIT DOWN!
It is done with such authority and menace, and then detailing how he had also duped Vesper to Camille a Canadian Security Intelligence Service agent. Bond maintains his measure and speaks with M who’s waiting outside, and here some of the details of the coat and scarf are seen. From the moment I saw this part I wanted to get a coat just like that.
The Tom Ford coat was a seasonal coat, and I did see the coat at the Tom Ford concession at Harrods, but at that time the cost was too much. Instead, I got an alternative coat from French Connection, it did have some of the military features as see on the coat, it had a belt at the back and epaulettes. But as much as it was a great alternative, it just wasn’t the same.
In 2014 I began discussions with the Tom Ford concession in Harrods about doing a recreation of the coat, the designs were part of the made to measure look book and there were a few details that were missing, one of which was that the neck clasp was a different design and the pleating in the back was a single pleat down the centre, rather than the pleating on the sides.
Saying that Tom Ford do offer a service called “cliché” where you can get a fully bespoke garment made, obviously at an increased cost. The next thing was the fabric, the original fabric had been discontinued, and there were some really good alternatives. I wanted to canvas the opinions of my fellow collectors and Bond aficionados, and put a post on AJB007 seeking their advice and opinions. One response was from David Zaritsky, who did have the coat in his collection.
One Previous Owner…
David has written on his acquisition of the coat from the Tom Ford store in New York city, as well as putting some amazing pictures online. During our discussions about the Kazan coat he asked me what size I take, I usually take an Italian size 46 (UK 36), he then asked if I would consider buying the coat, which was a size 48. I didn’t hesitate to say yes, and certainly within a week I had this amazing coat in my hands.
A tailored story….
The coat was a size (and a bit) too big for me, so I decided to visit the Tom Ford boutique in London, where I bumped into Seal who was at the store when I consulted the tailors. They took lots of measurements, but I could tell from their faces that this was a task too much for them.
The in-house tailor was pacing, and he asked if the coat could be sent to Milan, along with my measurements in order to see if the head tailors could make the necessary alterations. Alas, the head tailor was not able to tailor down this coat, however, the good sales assistants at Tom Ford recommended me a Savile Row tailor (Hidalgo Brothers at Savile Row – really nice independent tailors) whom they outsource to do alterations. The tailors were very accommodating and sized up and trimmed down the jacket to fit me.
Details, details, details…
The coat has a lot of military cues and features, my favourite is the back belt, the belt is detachable and some amazing stitching details. The neck clasp is very iconic, and I usually keep the collar popped up to emulate the way Bond wears his in the film, saying that the collar can be put down and it becomes a “faux” Ulster collar.
The 5 button double breasted front has a military feel, and being double breasted it provides an extra layer of warmth. The black herringbone pattern gives the illusion of height and the silhouette is very flattering. A word on the pockets, they have a good depth and I can easily store gloves in the outer pockets. There is an interior pocket as well which is nicely hidden in the inside placket. Another subtle feature is the stitching, which are incredibly detailed and a wonderful element to the coat.
Completing the look…
In addition to getting the coat from Mr Zaritsky, I was also able to get the correct scarf that he wears with this coat. The silk scarf has a black cashmere backing which provides extra warmth. The colour is a bronze / brown / black in a glen plaid check. Not only is this a smart look, it is incredibly warm and just compliments the coat. The scarf is nothing like I have had before, usually just 100% cashmere or silk, but this blend is something that is unique and timeless.
Is regret unprofessional?
A few weeks ago, I stumbled across the Octo-posse video on The Bond Experience YouTube page, and there was a discussion on regrets, and David admitted that he did miss this coat. I did get in touch to let him know the coat was still in excellent condition and was still being worn. David was very gracious and pleased to know that the coat was still being worn and in a good home, and I have to thank him again for providing me the opportunity to get this coat.
I recall back to the Savile Row tailor who made the alterations to this coat, he said to me that this coat will last a lifetime, it is made of a beautiful fabric and will keep you warm in most conditions, and 7 years on, he is absolutely correct. The coat is a heavy wool coat, and when you first wear it you do feel that weight, but over time it is not noticeable. He also said every man should have at least one proper winter coat, a coat that can compliment a suit, and a coat that can withstand the cold weather, and this is a prime example.
I also felt an emotional connection to the coat, in the film we see Bond confront the person who groomed Vesper to betray, and the dropping of the Sophie Harley Algerian love knot in the snow is a metaphor for Bond letting go of Vesper. In Spectre, Tom Ford produced a double-breasted Ulster collar coat, again in a herringbone pattern as seen in the Rome funeral scenes.
However, for me this coat, whilst a very nice one, did not capture the same essence and style as was seen in the end scenes of Quantum of Solace. This coat reiterates my view that Quantum of Solace as being the most stylish bond film amongst the Daniel Craig era, and even today this coat has a timeless look to it and will always be in fashion and practical.
- Some images within this post are the copyright of their respective movie studio and are reproduced here under the Fair Use doctrine. Some sourced from the open web, others from ScreenMusings.