By the cut of your suit, you went to Oxford or wherever. You actually think human beings dress like that. But you wear it with such disdain, my guess is that you didn’t come from money, and your school friends never let you forget it.

Article by Eisuke – Inspired by Bond.

Bespoke Casino Royale Suit from Brioni

The scene

This iconic scene in the 2006 iteration of “Casino Royale” marks the first time we see Daniel Craig’s Bond in what we expect the character to be in – a suit and tie. Though we don’t see him in full, it’s a refreshing change from the rugged casual looks and rumpled linen suits we see on him until this point.

You noticed

It’s also a rare moment where the character’s clothes are observed through another character’s eye in the franchise. Starting off with the Leiter – Bond exchange in Dr. No, Bond’s clothes have always been an imperative part of what formed the character, though Bond himself would rarely ever talk about his own clothes at all. This is why the moment Vesper acknowledged Bond’s Brioni, it was almost forth-wall breaking – bringing Bond back to his roots by materialising the clothes and giving them a purpose in the story, and not letting them blend into the aesthetic.

Learn more about the style of James Bond in the book From Tailors With Love: An Evolution of Menswear Through the Bond Films, available on Amazon.

From Tailors With Love Book

Available now on Amazon in Colour on Kindle currently 7.23 GBP

Making it work

As I briefly discussed in the Brioni Train Shirt article, this is not one of the usual minimalistic suit and tie looks we’re used to seeing on Bond. It’s a relatively forceful combination of stripes, stripes, and motifs. Observing the film’s wardrobe, many of the items are relatively inadvertent combinations of unique items – ‘80s cop style short sleeve shirts with wrinkled linen suits. Short sleeve polos with topcoats. A rugged leather flight jacket with dressy John Lobb boots. And of course, that Sunspel polo is also paired with a pair of wide chinos.

Something is constantly “off,” but Daniel Craig’s high-spirited, hot-blood portrayal of a rookie James Bond almost forcefully makes it work.

And this look, while changing from the casual theme, is no exception. There’s a lot going on in one look, almost opposite to those razor-sharp, minimal looks that Sean Connery established as the Bond style we have known for a while.

The look

Angelo Petrucci, Brioni’s master tailor and supervisor for Brosnan’s tailored wardrobe comments on Craig’s style as follows:

“For Craig’s Bond, we took away the British gentleman from Brosnan’s look almost entirely and went for an international look. We expanded Europe for him, in the purpose to completely recreate the Bond look with an even more modern approach.”

The colour

Upon observing the look in closer detail, this comment makes even more sense. Pierce Brosnan’s Bond took inspiration from Connery, evoking a classic British gentleman who is always beautifully turned out. Craig, on the other hand, has an elegant yet anonymous identity with his suits that don’t necessarily label him as a Brit. Well, in this case, they did, but… It would be no wonder if someone couldn’t tell if it was a striped suit, just because the beads that form the stripe are so subtle in colour and scale.

When we were choosing the fabric for this suit, that was a top priority – it had to be something that barely stood out and would appear as a solid. Matt Spaiser of Bond Suits describes the colour of the stripe as “grey,” which is extremely hard to tell on a deep navy background, but the moment we encountered this fabric, we noticed Matt was right as always.

Brioni Swatches pinstripe

The fabric

This (above) was a lightweight, 240g fabric in their “Il Guardaroba Excellence” bunch, a 100% Super 180s superfine wool. The hue of the navy was dark enough to justify the film’s colour, to appear almost a midnight blue under the train’s lighting. Striped suitings can be difficult to choose, especially since a swatch could give a very different impression of how the suit would turn out.

One concern was the spacing of the stripes, which, according to this publicity still (below) seems very closely spaced. Matt describes the width as half an inch, so it would have to be a narrow stripe. We selected a number of fabrics especially focusing on this spacing.

Casino Royale Train Suit Daniel Craig Brioni

The stripes

As much as my enthusiasm, I was ignorant in the field of striped suitings, so I went scrummaging on Matt’s blog to learn more about the different variations and what made each stripe what they were called. Matt’s article helped me out a lot in the research procedure upon giving advice to Raccoon. Looking at the fabric in detail, the twill weave in the background is evident. The stripe, which was definitely grey, not white, looked like a vertical row of beads that formed a stripe.

The twill was definitely breaking up this stripe, as the weave was almost obscuring the colouring on the single yarn the beads were.

This justified the reason why Matt described the suit’s stripe as “a stripe that’s hardly seen.” We borrowed the swatch and placed it close to a mannequin wearing a navy suit. This was to give us a clearer impression of the fabric as a suit, and just to give us a brief image of how the spacing of the stripes appeared against an actual lapel.

Pin stripe suit bespoke

Close enough, for comfort

And, it was bang on! The number of stripes on Craig’s lapel was almost a perfect match as we saw here, and just through taking this photo alone, the stripes were fading into the LED. The satisfaction levels were second to none since we found a spot-on match for an unorthodox fabric.

In addition, this was not something seasonal, but instead, a fabric that has been in Brioni’s permanent line. They couldn’t confirm the exact fabric code, but there was enough possibility that this fabric was an exact match since it had been around for decades.

The Model

Now that we had a solid starting point, on came the cut. Unlike the grandiose of the AUGUSTO jacket, the Brosnan classic (not his Hong Kong variant), the jacket was revealed by Brioni as a model based on the CHIGI silhouette. Now I say a model “based” on the CHIGI, because there are a number of other model