This article features an e-interview with Antoinette Messam, a former model and stylist in the fashion industry. I asked Antoinette about her thoughts on the style of James Bond aswell as her work on the feature, The Book of Clarence.
The Book of Clarence is a 2023 American biblical comedy-drama that follows a struggling down-on-his-luck man named Clarence living in A.D. 33 Jerusalem who looks to capitalize on the rise of Jesus Christ, by claiming to be a new Messiah sent by God, in an attempt to free himself of debt and start a life of glory for himself.
Antoinette have you ever thought about how you would approach doing a James Bond film?
I would have to carry on the tradition of very sophisticated and stylish clothes. Sexy and fashion-forward on whoever takes over the reins of the Bond franchise.
Could Bond come back to Savile Row and what brand outside of Brioni and TOM FORD would be capable / have the budget of doing all the multiples of suits for free?
Bond could and should come back to Savile Row, which would be amazing because it could be custom, and a new silhouette could be created. If it was a brand, it would depend on the actor and their body type, as some brands suit different men’s build. Gucci and Brioni are both owned by Kering, and they have the budget. Gucci could be good for a younger, stylish Bond. Don’t kill me, but maybe Ralph Lauren’s black Label……..it is “cough” American but its classic and they got dough lol. Sorry, couldn’t resist.
Perhaps you may have experienced something like that in other films you have worked on where you had to consider licensing for brands already signed up to do wardrobe for the films you have worked on. If so, please tell us about it.
I inherited Balmain when Netflix hired me to do The Harder they Fall. It was a nightmare. At the time, the marketing team at Netflix did not know or understand that they should communicate with the costume designer, as I was the one designing costumes for the actors. The design team at Balmain should have been introduced to me, and we talk about what I needed to tell the story and where we could collaborate. That did not happen.
Bit of an offbeat question, but perhaps you have some thoughts on how you would tackle James Bond wardrobe if given the job as designer.
I would absolutely love to do a James Bond film. The question is, which would I prefer to do? A period one like Diamonds Are Forever or any of the Sean Connery rein. Or skip to the Daniel Craig era of Bond, which was slick.
It depends on the story, obviously. Where is Bond in his life, and what is he doing? I have the upmost respect for the designers who have understood the assignment and have not changed the Bond style. I would work with who I am given as an actor and continue the classic style that is part of the brand. If done well, that is an accomplishment I would be proud of.
What made The Book of Clarence a special project for you?
The Book of Clarence was a special project for several reasons.
I was honoured to be requested by Director Jeymes Samuels. I am so incredibly excited to be working with this visionary director for the second time. I knew that I would be challenged creatively, and that scared and excited me at the same time. But the opportunity to work with so many iconic character actors was a costume designer’s dream. Let the collaborations begin!
The Icing on the cake was that I would prep and shoot this movie in Italy. This would be my first time working in person with some of the world’s oldest and most iconic costume rental houses. Touching the costumes myself from the famous rental houses of Peruzzi and Tirelli was a check on my bucket list. You couldn’t get better inspiration than being that close to the source of some of the most beautiful costumes built from my favorite films.
I am asked about the James McAvoy story often……
The famous James McAvoy story. I could not speak to James until the day before I saw him for a fitting. The fitting was on Friday, and he was shooting on camera on Monday. The night before the fitting, he requested armor. We found something to try, but I didn’t have time to research it, and I was wary of showing something I hadn’t done enough research on.
That costume was not correct at the fitting, and we all knew it. He wanted to look like a commanding officer, and when I told him I was not sure I could get it ready for camera, he said, “I’m sure you can do it, Antoinette.” Luckily for me, I could ask the rental house to go in on a Saturday to pull a few options for him and try before camera on Monday morning. We found one that he liked, but unfortunately for all of us, he had a severe allergic reaction to the wool undershirt. Why? James McAvoy is allergic to horses, and the preferred costume had been near a horse.
A doctor had to be called, and the set came to a standstill while we sprayed, steamed, and put it in a dryer with disinfectant. He wanted to wear it because he wanted to wear Roman armor in this movie, and he did.
Where did Benjamin the Beggar come from?
How did Benjamin the Beggar end up in Jerusalem? I needed to give him a backstory to create his costume, so I decided he was a wealthy Roman who had lost everything, including his mind. When he left Rome and found his way to Jerusalem, his robes became dirty and tattered with time until he was unrecognizable as a former Roman with means. When I told Jeymes and Benedict Cumberbatch that story! They both loved it.
Antoinette Messam can be reached through her website here.
